Thursday, May 30, 2019

A Letter for Peace




Caitlin Thurrell  --  22 May 2019

I am a woman who lives now in a desert village made abundant by thousands of years of human hands' joined effort.  The work of peace is not an easy work -- heavy weight of water and soil, harvest, children bourne.  Heavier work to ask life, bowing, from one's own place, than to take it by force from somewhere else.

A village is a particular and living being, made of the lives that fill it, and their weaving. Made of the weaving of a people into a land, and the labors that offer the space to thrive.  From the vantage of this village it is easier to imagine the life of another village: where women also carry water, where men also climb into trees to cut wood.  Where children also pull down green apricots to gnaw their hard, sour bodies and then toss them to stray dogs.  A Syrian village, that has been destroyed.  An Iranian village that could cease to exist.

I am a white-skinned woman born in the occupied indigenous territory now called the United States of America.  I live now in this place of great, dry mountains mostly for love of its water and the many works that make its life.  I live here, also, because the fruits of the American imperial project are bitter to me.  I would free my life from them to the extent that I can, though I do not imagine myself for a moment to be uncomplicit.

It is late spring.  The fields are green now with young barley.  Columbines bloom in the rocks, and dry, wild roses.  Sometimes when I blink, in the dark moment of closed eyes I see bombs falling, here.  I see the places where houses stand above their fields becoming wreckage, see the walls and canals carefully repaired each year for fifty generations become rubble.  I see the grandmothers I love -- whose knees hurt, who miss their grandchildren in the city, who tend beautiful gardens -- looking up at the sound of plane flight to be made blind by explosions of fire.  These are not empty imaginings.  This has happened how many times?  On beautiful spring mornings in Vietnam, Guatemala, Afghanistan, Iraq, Syria, Yemen.  It could happen now, soon, in Iran.

In how many lands have American bombs visited catastrophe on powerless people?  In how many lands have villages been destroyed?  I know one village, in my body, with the intimacy of a lover.  I can imagine what its destruction would actually mean, in a way I believe the perpetrators of such destruction cannot.  I trust this much, at least, in their humanity.

Today I am peeling willow poles in the forest of the upper village, the shout of the glacial stream so complete that it becomes a silence.  Because it is late spring; because this is the necessary work of these days, between the first and second waterings of the fields.  Because this is the truest way that I know how to pray against the terror of bombs falling -- on this forest, or any forest -- on these precious orchards and fields, or on precious Iranian orchards and fields.

May it not come to pass.  May it not be, that Iranian mothers and grandmothers look up to planes carrying death pregnant in their bellies.  May those who hold power speak out.  May we who hold power speak out against this unthinkable horror.  May the villages and cities, the lands and waters and precious bodies of that land, and every land, live undestroyed.


Friday, May 10, 2019

Giving Water, Manure, and Shau


We want to write more about manure.  It's so important to life.  For now, here is a shot of the early morning work getting going on an April plowing day.  The fields are flooded before manure is spread, so that it doesn't wash away -- so most plowing mornings start at first light with the whole village gathering to shovel into baskets and carry and dump, manure spread by Abis with shovels and turned in with the seed.

Please see a post last year from Caitlin on watering (with new photos), the work that is happening right now in Tar....


Here is a field being watered, before plowing

Here are the ladies who give the water

Making shau

And this is what we're going for.

Song and Turned Earth

Plowing Ama Tinles's fields

For the last twenty days I have been seizing hold of the plow by its wooden handle, stepping up all my weight upon the metal plowshare at the field edge as the dzo team pulls it forward.  The share bites maybe two hand's breadth deep into winter-packed earth, and I work its tall wooden shol, now bent over, now holding upright, all just to catch the next eight or twelve inches of unbroken earth and see it lift deep brown and break open like a wave.

Abi Tsewang, Acho Konchok, and a team of dzo, all hooked up with the shol

This is called tong tangches (giving the plow), and whoever plays this role also sings praise to the dzo.  The other tool of motivation is held in the offhand, a freshly cut smoothly green-barked willow switch.  Some guys who plow (it's men only) use the switch and barely sing.  Others give delightful song and even can plow singing at a jog behind the team.  On big days it's good to have them at the helm.  I'm slower than that, and I'm told I have a light hand.  Plowing slowly and carefully means less breaking -- you get caught under a giant alfalfa root and break the tong chung, a small specially-carved piece of willow wood that connects the plowshare and the shol, a part of the system designed to be the weak link that breaks and is easily replaced. 

My view of Acho Stondus fixing a new tong chung

I find I can use voice and body language and I only rarely need the lash.  It's still often fear that's motivating them, though, and in my heart I would like that to be different.  any people have been feeding me delicious words of need and praise for me to feed in turn to the dzo as we plow, burying the seed and manure to bring forth the barley once again.

Norbu nyis ka
you two golden ones

Tse-bo-ring shik
a long life to you

Lha kar tonpo la ging cha men a dzubi
On high white passes, won't you dzo stand proudly?

Ri stod tonpo la serchen mentok hamza salkan skyod ley
Respectfully journey to the mountaintop as grazers of the great golden flower

Drong la nyima laney boot dug lay....Gyat chu rolbo nam kyong chen lay
In the high wilds the sun falls easily....when will we bring another eighty rows?

Ama Balangi bu-stakh sengey nyis ka
Mother Cow's two sons like lions

For more, please see last year's post on plowing


Plowing with Aba Tsering Dorje and Jason

Memes Tundup, Stanzin, & Angchuk pushing rbat in front of the gonpa they built

Ama Gunzes (front with thokse) and Ama Yangzes at work

Acho Tsewang & his dzo


Plowing Kotipa's fields